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Friday 27 April 2012

3D camera for broadcasting

 HXR_NX3D1U




The HXR-NX3D1U is a compact, lightweight, WorldCam 3D/ 2D NXCAM camcorder suitable for principal photography in small budget productions or as a B camera in big budget productions. Thanks to its small size, low weight, simple operation and exceptional flexibility it can shoot 3D at camera angles that were never possible before.

  • 3.5-inch Xtra Fine LCD™ display (1229K) providing user-selectable 2D or glassless 3D viewing.
  • User-selectable HDMI® output format  with output of horizontally compressed left and right images packed into a single frame.
  • Multi-Format Recording: 3D 60i/50i/24p & 2D 60p/60i/50p/50i/25p/24p
  • Large capacity, 96GB of internal memory enabling extended recording in 3D mode for approximately 7.5 hours. 
  • Dual Exmor R® Sensor – ¼ type with ClearVid pixel array provides 4.2 Million pixels, high image fidelity
  • Optical SteadyShot™ w/Active Mode and 10x Optical Zoom (34.4-344mm) in 3D
  • Balanced, two XLR audio inputs: Uncompressed 16-bit LPCM or Dolby Digital
  • The supplied Content Management Utility 2.1 software enables conversion of MVC video files to 2D AVC files with independent left and right channels.

PMWTD300




  • Dual 1/2-inch type Exmor Full-HD 3CMOS sensors
  • Dual lens system
  • XDCAM EX recording
  • SxS card slots (L/R x 2)
  • 3D/2D recording modes
  • Intuitive convergence control with a dedicated dial feature
  • Viewfinder with 3.5-inch type color LCD
  • HD-SDI out (L/R dual stream, audio and TC embedded)
  • HDMI out (3D/2D) for viewing on consumer 3D displays
  • Genlock in & TC in/out for integration with multi-camera systems


Monday 23 April 2012

THE 3D





All of the 2010 3D TV models – both LCD and Plasma – required Active Shutter Glasses, which have high-speed LCD shutters for each eye that are electronically synchronized to the sequential right and left images generated by the TV every 1/120th of a second. 2011 has resulted in a lot more available 3D content and two important developments in 3D technology:  a new generation of 3D TVs with Active Shutter Glasses, and a new 3D TV technology called Film Pattern Retarder (FPR) that uses very light weight and inexpensive Passive Glasses that are similar to ordinary polarized sunglasses, and identical to the 3D glasses used in most 3D movie theaters. The FPR 3D TV technology doesn’t need high-speed electronic shutters because it uses circularly polarized light filters to keep the right and left images separate for each eye.


3D TV technology is still relatively new so it’s not surprising that most consumers (and many reviewers) are still trying to sort out all of the manufacturer’s claims, figure out what they mean, and what they should do next. There are some conflicting and unsubstantiated statements about 3D TV technologies that are being made in a badgering manner just like in the classic tale of The Emperor’s New Clothes. The object of this article is to provide detailed objective test results that will let you decide what is really there, or not there… But the most important issue of all is whether either of these technologies is able to provide an enjoyable and convincing 3D viewing experience – we’ll answer that below, but first we’ll back it up with lots of objective evidence.

There are a number of very interesting (and frequently misunderstood) 3D imaging and visualization issues that need to be examined for both of these 3D TV technologies in order to straighten out the incorrect and confusing information about them. This article will provide an objective in-depth analysis of both 3D technologies. We have plenty of measurement data, which provides lots of good objective evidence, but the most interesting and important part in evaluating 3D is the actual 3D imaging and visualization itself, and that only happens inside the brain, so instruments cannot help with that part of the evaluation. We used lots of high quality 3D content including 3D movies, photos, images and test patterns. We will describe a series of quantifiable 3D visual tests that anyone can duplicate at home to verify our results and conclusions on 3D TV imaging for themselves.

Saturday 21 April 2012

HOT SPOT TECHNOLOGY FOR CRICKET BROADCAST

100% accuracy in catching the thinnest of edges

HOT SPOT

HotSpot is a television innovation - first seen during Channel Nine's coverage of the 2006-07 Ashes - that uses infrared camera technology to determine whether a batsman has made contact with a delivery, and if so, which part of his bat or body made contact.

WORKING PRINCIPLE

Two powerful thermal-imaging cameras are positioned above the field of play, behind the bowler's arm at either end of a ground. These can remotely sense and measure the minute amount of heat generated by the impact of a cricket ball against another object. Computer technology then generates a negative image on which the point of contact is highlighted as a red friction "hot spot" for a second or two. HotSpot doesn't only record impacts between the ball and other objects, but also the bat hitting a pad or the ground.
If there are two simultaneous hot spots - ball on pad and bat brushing pad - close together, how do you differentiate?
Two hot spots would appear, one fractionally before the other, according to the sequence of the events. HotSpot is therefore useful in instances of bat-pad impacts in determining whether the ball hit bat or pad first. 

What technology does the application use?

HotSpot uses technology developed in the military for tank- and jet-fighter tracking. The technology was adapted for television by BBG Sports, the Australian company responsible for the Snickometer, in conjunction with Sky Sports. Channel Nine producer Steve Crawley described HotSpot as "100% backed up by science", as opposed to other applications. 

Has it been used in any other sport?

HotSpot has only been used in cricket - though its services are not available to umpires under the current referral system - but work is underway to adapt the technology for use in tennis.



Thursday 19 April 2012

HAWK EYE TECHNOLOGY IN SPORTS BROADCASTING


Hawk-Eye  is a complex computer system used in cricket, tennis and other sports to visually track the trajectory of the ball and display a record of its most statistically likely path as a moving image. It was developed by engineers at Roke Manor Research Limited of Romsey, Hampshire in the UK, in 2001.

Method of operation

All Hawk-Eye systems are based on the principles of triangulation using the visual images and timing data provided by at least four high-speed video cameras located at different locations and angles around the area of play.[2] 
 The system rapidly processes the video feeds by a high-speed video camera and ball tracker. A data store contains a predefined model of the playing area and includes data on the rules of the game.
In each frame sent from each camera, the system identifies the group of pixels which corresponds to the image of the ball. It then calculates for each frame the 3D position of the ball by comparing its position on at least two of the physically separate cameras at the same instant in time. A succession of frames builds up a record of the path along which the ball has travelled. It also "predicts" the future flight path of the ball and where it will interact with any of the playing area features already programmed into the database

The singles, 2s, 3s, 4s and 6s that make up quick-fire 50s or vital centuries are represented by the different colours of the Wagon Wheel, which shows the areas of the field that the batsman has been targeting. Hawk-Eye now has the ability to display wagon wheels over photo realistic or virtual realistic backgrounds, giving broadcasters even more scope to taylor the Hawk-Eye 'look' towards the style of their production.


Hawk-Eye DeSpin Graphics demonstrate how far a delivery has deviated after pitching. Whilst the blue trajectory below represents a ball that does not spin or seam, the red ‘actual delivery’ shows just how much turn the spinner has achieved.
The pure tracking system is combined with a backend database and archiving capabilities so that it is possible to extract and analyse trends and statistics about individual players, games, ball-to-ball 
comparisons, etc.

Cricket


It is in cricket TV broadcasts that Hawk-Eye first made its name. The technology is used by broadcasters to resolve LBW shouts and, as with its tennis counterpart, to generate easily-digestible statistics to enhance the viewing experience. Viewers now expect Hawk-Eye to show whether a batsman should have been given ‘in’ or ‘out’: the technology predicts the path of the ball as it comes out of the bounce, thus determining whether the ball would have hit the stumps.

Whilst it is not used officially by the ICC, Hawk-Eye’s six years of technical experience have made it a firm favorite with fans and players of the gam

LBWs
 
Viewers now expect Hawk-Eye’s verdict on lbw ‘shouts’; a testimony to Hawk-Eye’s reputation for accuracy and reliability. The company’s experienced operators will deliver the relevant trajectory, half-mixed with the equivalent video sequence, in time for the first replay. This gives commentators and viewers adequate time to discuss and digest the result before the next ball has been bowled.

Hawk-Eye helps to resolve the following three issues:
  • Would the ball have hit the stumps?
  • Did the ball pitch in-line?
  • Did the ball hit the batsman in-line?


Beehives

Beehives show where the ball has passed the batsman.As with the Pitch Map, the coloured balls correspond to the number of runs that the batsman has achieved from that delivery. Hawk-Eye Beehives can now be shown against a photo realistic or virtual realistic world, as with the Wagon Wheel feature.

RailCam

 The ‘RailCam’ (side view) shot of the VR World can be used to represent differences in speed, bounce and delivery. The trajectories are animated, whilst the speeds provide further evidence of a bowler’s variation or a telling comparison between athletes.








Ball Speeds

Hawk-Eye now has the ability to supply ball speeds as reliably as a radar gun, as demonstrated during the ICC World Twenty20 in South Africa

Monday 9 April 2012

how to build a low cost prompter

A normal teleprompter comes with a 15 inch screen. But since I was doing single person stand-ups I realized that the 7 inch monitor I have laying around would make a great monitor for my needs. In case you are interested you can purchase a 7 inch LCD monitor for a bit over $100 these days. Keep in mind that you don't need high rez of super color rendition as a prompter plays in black and white, so any inexpensive monitor from a 7 inch like I used to a 15 inch computer monitor that costs $150 will work fine.


There are two types of design in prompters. The traditional set-up's basically a box with a monitor that lies with the screen facing up. A 45 degree piece of glass (slightly coated with a mirror-like surface) reflects the monitors image to anyone standing in front of the lens. See illustration below. 


The second kind of prompter set-up involves the same principles as above but the box that encloses the set-up is eliminated and all you are left with is a monitor with a mirror hinged on one side sort of like how a book opens. It's lighter and easier to handle. But it also allows more light to wash out your screen. Since my standup's will be outside, I prefer the older style box enclosure as it creates a dark area around the monitor.
You can use anything from sheet metal to more rigid steel for the enclosure just as long as it will make a ridged box capable of holding the glass. In my case I used 16 gauge steel, a thin but sturdy steel that you can purchase in small sheets at hardware stores such as the Home Depot. They also sell a very thin 24 gauge, but I wanted rock sturdy at the cost of some weight. So pick what works for you. Remember in the end, it has to hold a piece of glass so don't go too thin, like sheet metal.
Once constructed, this prompter is about 9 inches square. That can be a pain to transport, so I designed my box to collapse. I've seen folks make hinged-type boxes but I decided on a simple but effective way, using wing screws which I could screw the box together with.
After cutting the metal pieces to the appropriate size necessary to create a box that will fit around the monitor (I used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the metal), I needed a way to attach the two sides of the box to the top piece. I cut pieces of aluminum L shaped metal and riveted these brackets to what would become the top panel of the box.  
  • Above: The top panel with L bracket showing. Notice three rivets used to attach it to panel. Also notice this is the painted version. I used a textured paint and baked it on by painting the final assembly, then placing it in an oven at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes. Doing so adheres the paint so it is more difficult to chip or scratch.
    Also notice the holes on either end of the L bracket (silver side). I drilled those holes so the wing screws would fit thorough them. Next next thing to do is to give the wing nuts something to screw into. I found nuts that fit the screws and attached them to the inside of the L bracket. Below is the method I used. The following visual presentation is not the actual L bracket but done after the fact so I could show you how it is done. 


    1)Above: I drilled holes the same size as the screw size
    2)Above: I placed the nut over the hole
  • 3)Above and below: Using a metal epoxy and a Q-tip (cotton removed) I epoxied the nut to the steel 
  • The nut glued and ready to go in about 15 minutes. I ended up gluing four of these to each side of the two L brackets. This will accept the wing screw and make a three sided box once attached.  
  • Above: The finished piece. You are looking at the inside of the top piece of the box frame with screw glued and all painted. Notice how this glue expands to three times its size engulfing he screw like it's been welded.



    Next, I lined the side panels up to the top panel, marked the hole location and drilled out the two holes in each side panel. I glued cup washers to the outside of each hole on each side panel so that when I tighten the wing screw it has something to rest on other than simply the painted side of the panel
     
    I now have a three sided box, top, and two sides. There are a number of ways I could have attached the three sided box to the monitor such as creating a bracket the monitor rested in or by using using velcro. Since I will use this configuration in the future, I decided to do the same thing to the monitor that I did to the top panel, drill holes and glue nuts inside so I could easily screw the side panels to it. This would allow me to use the monitor on it's own when I needed and as a prompter monitor. And by screwing the monitor to the upper panels I created a rigid box. 








  • Next I needed to figure out how to make a tray for the glass. A word about the glass. The glass I used is a piece of glass that has a minor reflective coating on it one side (like one way mirror but not such a mirror and not so dark). You can get such glass at a local glass shop. They call it beam-splitting glass. I simply asked to see what varieties they had and found one that cut down light the least, while offering a slightly reflective surface so the monitor could be seen by the reader. You will end up with glass that cuts light down anywhere from 1/2 stop to 2 stops. If you really are handy, you can make your own beam-splitting glass. Read this.
    The glass needs to be at a 45 degree angle when installed to work properly. I used more of the L bracket and attached a piece to either side of the inside of the sides of the prompter box with rivets making a tray the glass could lay in. I also attached a small piece to the bottom of the bracket to act as a stop so the glass would not slide down. I put a small clear rubber stopper on the back of the tray and added the softer side of velcro strips to the bottom of the tack so the glass had something to rest on. See below. 

    The attached L bracket with the additional stopper at the bottom and velcro on the track where the glass will rest.

    A blurry shot looking through the glass. Notice the reflection of the computer monitor and keyboard in what is the mirrored side of the glass. facing the camera here.
    And for the final touch I needed something to prevent light from spilling into the box from the camera side. If you don't stop the light from being seen by the talent it washes out the reflected lettering on the glass. Prompter people use a simple method of attaching the sticky side of Velcro all the way around the inside of the box on the lens side, then using a piece of black material simply stick it to all sides. That's what I did also. 

    The material I cut to fit the backside of the prompter hole. Notice I cut a hole at the center of the material so I could fit the lens through it. A picture if the material in action appears later.
    I did not go crazy with a method of mounting this. There are two ways to mount a prompter. One is called free standing. Freestanding prompter means the prompter sits on it's own stand in front of the lens. This method doesn't allow much camera panning. The second method is to mount the camera to the camera plat and tripod. This method give the most mobility and allows you easy pan and tilt.
    In my scenario I only needed it to sit in front of the camera so I went with the free sanding method. As the pictures below showed, I took a six inch Matthews plate and placed the stud into a grip knuckle attached to a stand. The flat side of the plate now acts as a small table. Since my monitor has a Anton Bauer fitting and battery I simply added a piece of velcro to the top of the plate and the battery and used four small bungies for extra support. It worked perfectly. There are many more ways of making a freestanding adaptor and if need be a metal or wooden riser so it can be attached to the front of the camera and tripod. 






Sunday 8 April 2012

BACK FOCUS IN THE BROADCAST INDUSTRY


BACK FOCUS

If you find that your focus is sharp when you are zoomed in but soft when zoomed out, your back focus needs adjusting. This normally only happens to cameras with detachable lenses — consumer-level camera users shouldn't have to worry about it.

Technical Note: Back focus refers to the "focal flange length". This is the distance between the rear lens element and the CCD.





  • A camera with a back focus ring. It will be located toward the rear of the lens housing.
  • A back focus chart like the one pictured is helpful, but any object with sharp contrast will  do
  •  

     

     

    How to Adjust the Camera Back Focus

  • Set your camera on a tripod or stable mount, with your subject (back focus chart or other contrasting object) at least 20 metres/70 feet away (or as far as possible).
     
  • Your iris should be wide open, so it's better to perform this operation in low light. Alternatively, add some shutter speed or a ND filter.
     
  • If your lens has a 2X extender, switch it to 1X.
     
  • Zoom in on your subject.
     
  • Adjust the focus normally until the picture is sharp. If you're using a back focus chart, the centre of the chart will appear blurry - your focus is sharpest when the blurred circle is smallest. (You can simulate this effect by looking at the chart above and defocusing your eyes.)
     
  • Zoom out.
     
  • Loosen the back-focus ring's locking screw, and adjust the ring until the picture is sharp.
     
  • Repeat steps 3-6 until the focus is consistently sharp.
     
  • Tighten the back-focus locking screw.
  •  

Saturday 7 April 2012

THE WHITE BALANCE

blue tone

orginal
White balance (WB) is the process of removing unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in your photo. Proper camera white balance has to take into account the "color temperature" of a light source, which refers to the relative warmth or coolness of white light. Our eyes are very good at judging what is white under different light sources, but digital cameras often have great difficulty with auto white balance (AWB) — and can create unsightly blue, orange, or even green color casts. Understanding digital white balance can help you avoid these color casts, thereby improving your photos under a wider range of lighting conditions.

BACKGROUND: COLOR TEMPERATURE

Color temperature describes the spectrum of light which is radiated from a "black body" with that surface temperature. A black body is an object which absorbs all incident light — neither reflecting it nor allowing it to pass through. A rough analogue of black body radiation in our day to day experience might be in heating a metal or stone: these are said to become "red hot" when they attain one temperature, and then "white hot" for even higher temperatures. Similarly, black bodies at different temperatures also have varying color temperatures of "white light." Despite its name, light which may appear white does not necessarily contain an even distribution of colors across the visible spectrum:

Note how 5000 K produces roughly neutral light, whereas 3000 K and 9000 K produce light spectrums which shift to contain more orange and blue wavelengths, respectively. As the color temperature rises, the color distribution becomes cooler. This may not seem intuitive, but results from the fact that shorter wavelengths contain light of higher energy.
Why is color temperature a useful description of light for photographers, if they never deal with true blackbodies? Fortunately, light sources such as daylight and tungsten bulbs closely mimic the distribution of light created by blackbodies, although others such as fluorescent and most commercial lighting depart from blackbodies significantly. Since photographers never use the term color temperature to refer to a true blackbody light source, the term is implied to be a "correlated color temperature" with a similarly colored blackbody. The following table is a rule-of-thumb guide to the correlated color temperature of some common light sources:

Color Temperature Light Source
1000-2000 K  Candlelight
2500-3500 K  Tungsten Bulb (household variety)
3000-4000 K  Sunrise/Sunset (clear sky)
4000-5000 K  Fluorescent Lamps
5000-5500 K  Electronic Flash
5000-6500 K  Daylight with Clear Sky (sun overhead)
6500-8000 K  Moderately Overcast Sky
9000-10000 K  Shade or Heavily Overcast S

IN PRACTICE

Since some light sources do not resemble blackbody radiators, white balance uses a second variable in addition to color temperature: the green-magenta shift. Adjusting the green-magenta shift is often unnecessary under ordinary daylight, however fluorescent and other artificial lighting may require significant green-magenta adjustments to the WB.

The first three white balances allow for a range of color temperatures. Auto white balance is available in all digital cameras and uses a best guess algorithm within a limited range — usually between 3000/4000 K and 7000 K. Custom white balance allows you to take a picture of a known gray reference under the same lighting, and then set that as the white balance for future photos. With "Kelvin" you can set the color temperature over a broad range.
The remaining six white balances are listed in order of increasing color temperature, however many compact cameras do not include a shade white balance. Some cameras also include a "Fluorescent H" setting, which is designed to work in newer daylight-calibrated fluorescents.


CUSTOM WHITE BALANCE: CHOOSING A NEUTRAL REFERENCE

A neutral reference is often used for color-critical projects, or for situations where one anticipates auto white balance will encounter problems. Neutral references can either be parts of your scene (if you're lucky), or can be a portable item which you carry with you. Below is an example of a fortunate reference in an otherwise bluish twilight scene.




On the other hand, pre-made portable references are almost always more accurate since one can easily be tricked into thinking an object is neutral when it is not. Portable references can be expensive and specifically designed for photography, or may include less expensive household items. An ideal gray reference is one which reflects all colors in the spectrum equally, and can consistently do so under a broad range of color temperatures. An example of a pre-made gray reference is shown below

IN MIXED LIGHTING



Multiple illuminant with different color temperatures can further complicate performing a white balance. Some lighting situations may not even have a truly "correct" white balance, and will depend upon where color accuracy is most important..

Under mixed lighting, auto white balance usually calculates an average color temperature for the entire scene, and then uses this as the white balance. This approach is usually acceptable, however auto white balance tends to exaggerate the difference in color temperature for each light source, as compared with what we perceive with our eyes.

Exaggerated differences in color temperature are often most apparent with mixed indoor and natural lighting. Critical images may even require a different white balance for each lighting region. On the other hand, some may prefer to leave the color temperatures as is.

Note how the building to the left is quite warm, whereas the sky is somewhat cool. This is because the white balance was set based on the moonlight — bringing out the warm color temperature of the artificial lighting below. White balancing based on the natural light often yields a more realistic photograph. Choose "stone" as the white balance reference and see how the sky becomes unrealistically blue.








Thursday 5 April 2012

Serial Digital Interface (SDI)

Serial Digital Interface (SDI) is the most popular raw video connectivity standard used in television broadcast studios and video production facilities.

The availability of high-speed serial inputs/outputs and general purpose programmable logic makes FPGAs (field programmable gate arrays) ideal devices to be used for acquisition, mixing, storage, editing, processing and format conversion applications. Simpler applications use FPGAs to acquire SDI data from one or more SD (standard definition), HD (high definition) or 3G (3-Gigabit HD) sources, perform simple processing and re-transmit the video data in SDI format. Such applications require an SDI PHY (physical layer) interface and some basic processing blocks like a color space converter. In more complex applications, the acquired video is taken through multiple processing phases, like de-interlacing, video format conversion, filtering, scaling, graphics mixing and picture-in-picture display. FPGA devices can also be used as a bridge between SDI video sources and backplane protocols such as PCI Express or Ethernet, with or without any additional video processing.

Tri-rate 
SDI PHY Block Diagram
  • Interface: SMPTE 259M-2006 [1] (SD), SMPTE 292M-1998 [2] (HD) and SMPTE 424 M [3] (3G)
  • SD source formats: SMPTE 125M [4] and SMPTE 267M [5] (13.5 Mhz only)
  • HD source formats: SMPTE 260M [6], SMPTE 274M [7], SMPTE 295M [8] and SMPTE 296M [9]
  • 3G source formats: SMPTE 425M [10]

The IP, when connected with the LatticeECP3 SERDES, can transmit and/or receive any of the supported video standards and formats through a common physical serial interface. The IP core can automatically scan and lock on to any of the supported video streams. Receiving multiple standards requires appropriate external clocks to be supplied by the application in response to commands from the IP core.

Features 

  • Dynamic reception of multiple interface standards over the same physical cable: SD-SDI, HD-SDI and 3G-SDI interfaces
  • Automatic Rx (receive) rate detection and dynamic Tx (transmit) rate selection
  • Multiple SD source formats support: SMPTE 125M [4] and SMPTE 267M [5] (13.5 MHz only)
  • Multiple HD source formats support: SMPTE 260M [6], SMPTE 274M [7], SMPTE 295M [8] and SMPTE 296M [9]
  • Support for 3G source formats, including 3G Level-B format: SMPTE 425M [10]
  • Word alignment and timing reference sequence (TRS) detection
  • Field, vertical blanking (vblank) and horizontal blanking (hblank) timing signals generation
  • CRC computation, error checking and insertion for HD/3GLine number (LN) decoding and encoding for HD/3G
  • Custom source format support for HD/3G
  • Video Payload Identifier (VPID) insertion and extraction for HD/3G
  • 10-bit parallel input/output support for SD
  • Soft-logic based low data-rate (LDR) serializer for SD transmission

Sunday 1 April 2012

WORKING PRINCIPLE OF CAMERA





Digital  cameras capture their images on a silicon semiconductor referred to as a digital sensor. This sensor is composed of an array of photosensitive diodes called photosites that capture photons (subatomic light particles) and converts them to electrons, much like solar panels convert light to energy. This build up of electrons in each photo site is converted to a voltage which in turn is converted to digital data as a picture element or ‘pixel’. These pixels are then relayed in consecutive order and stored as an image on the camera’s memory as a file. These files can then be viewed on the camera in the LCD screen, or uploaded to a computer where they can also be viewed or manipulated with imaging software.